This Issey Miyake Bomber Jacket Will Be Coveted Forever

Fashion designer Issey Miyake, who died last week at the age of 84, will be remembered for many things. He made forward-looking clothes elegant and rebellious, and did it with ease. He was one of the first Japanese designers to parade in Paris and has outfitted generations of pleated pants and shirt designers. But one particular piece from his extensive catalog of work stands out. It’s a futuristic, utilitarian bomber from a 1996 collection, and it’s built a feverish following in the 20-plus years since its debut.

You could say this jacket’s legacy didn’t start on a fashion show but on the red carpet, when the late Robin Williams wore it to his movie premiere in 1997. Flubber. It was a cold November day, so wearing a heavier jacket was no surprise. But wearing such an edgy design to a kids’ movie premiere was bound to turn heads. “Just stay out of his way he’s wearing swat team gear,” teased the E! host for a red carpet interview. ” Please ! Step back! Williams fired back, smiling and not missing a beat. Williams might not have known it at the time, but her outfit would eventually become a staple in fashion-centric corners of the internet: nowadays, you can’t open Instagram or Twitter without seeing it in grail mode while promoting a very bouncy mush movie. And while it would take the public a while to appreciate Williams’ sartorial genius, we can now point to his endorsement of this jacket, alongside labels like Acronym, Visvim and Bape, as way ahead of his time.

This particular jacket was from his Fall/Winter 1996 collection; the design was based on the famous military MA-1 but supercharged with modular front pockets and a large rectangular rear pocket. In the years that followed, this hyper-utilitarian aesthetic would appear again and again on the catwalks. Austrian designer Helmut Lang sent ballistic-style vests down the runway in a 1998 collection. In 2001, Raf Simons released the “Riot Riot Riot!” camouflage. bomber. the old is widely regarded as the inspiration for a landmark piece from Yeezy’s first season, while the latter is the favorite of a rapper who orders a whopping $47,000 in the secondary market. The Miyake jacket looks like it might be destined for a similar fate.

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