If you’re not already familiar with the likes of Japanese fashion archivists on Instagram, this may be the first time you’ve seen General Research’s Parasite jacket. If so, yes, there really are at least 100 pockets on this jacket. If not, don’t worry: your overpriced Grailed ads probably aren’t cheaper.
Founded by Setsumasa Kobayashi in 1993, General Research is part of a family of brands under Kobayashi’s Sett Incorporated, which includes the now defunct War Field Wear Research and Mountain Research.
Collectively, Kobayashi calls his brands “…..Research,” as each is an excuse for him to exhaustively explore fetishistic and accurate reproductions of vintage militaria and workwear, often tailored to his preferences.
The General Research Parasite jacket is reissued in a two-part collaboration with fellow Japanese IS-NESS, which is almost as old as General Research, but not as popular overseas.
Although the IS-NESS has been around since 2001, its popularity has only really grown in recent years, with designer Tomomi Kishita refocusing his neo-hippie outdoor gear designs on coaches jackets. and traditionally inspired balloon pants.
The general search is apparently gone, but Kishita presumably twisted Kobayashi’s arm to create these reworked classics, which include the Parasite Padding Style 361 Jacket and the Classic Parasite Jacket.
Style 361 is the puffy hooded style that has captured the minds of archival collectors, some of whom sell original General Research Parasite jackets for over $10,000.
In all honesty, OG Parasite jackets are pretty hard to come by, given that few have survived over the years – General Research’s Parasite collection debuted in 1998 – so maybe people won’t mind cough up ¥154,000 (about $1,100) for the IS-NESS Parasite Padding Jacket reissue, which is true to the original design except for an updated nylon exterior and rainbow zipper pulls -heavens that are the signature of IS-NESS.
If that’s too high a price for a restock, the archetypal hunting-inspired Parasite Jacket is also returning for just ¥58,300 (about $400). It’s not as much of a statement compared to the vivid palette of Padding Jackets and it’s a bit different compared to the original iteration, but it’s still there.
Either way, keep an eye out IS-NESS online storewhere General Research jackets will be launched in mid-September.
It’s interesting how much demand there is behind General Research’s Parasite collection, compared to the hype about, say, Final Home. Survival jackets or Phenomenon zippered cargo jackets but I just have to assume it’s all those little 3D pockets. They look cool.
Cool enough that General Research has been quietly reproducing new Parasite pieces over the past few months, starting with a few cargo pocket backpacks with fellow OG fashion label NEXUSVII.